Can’t decide if you want a hard tail or full suspension? I have been rotating back and forth between my hard tail and full suspension bike lately. I enjoy riding both and have been pondering the phrase “pedals like a hard tail”. The inference and conventional wisdom is that hard tails pedal more efficiently than full suspension bikes, and, therefore, the best. It seems pretty intuitive that, yes, a hard tail is more efficient – nothing moving besides the drive train. That said, rather than debating the relative pedaling efficiency of hard tails vs full suspension, I think “rides like a hard tail” is more a more useful way of looking at things when comparing the the two types of bikes.

Full suspension with all the complexity of pivots and shock

The elegant simplicity of a hard tail

Why do I say “rides like a hard tail” is more useful? As far efficiency goes, I honestly wonder if the average rider will notice any downside to riding a quality full suspension bike – by quality I mean a bike in the general league of full suspension bikes most major manufacturers list for more than $2,000. I guess there are two caveats to this statement.

First, it has to be set up correctly. If sag, rebound, etc are not at least in the ballpark, all bets are off on how it will perform. Second, is that I am not fortunate enough to live where there are the types of long, steep, smooth climbs where I alternate between pedaling out out of the saddle and spinning at a high cadence while seated. When I have slogged up a hill for an hour straight, I confess, I have resented even the thought of any energy being wasted by the suspension moving around due to pedaling forces. But really, it’s not like climbing for an hour is fun – no matter what you are riding. (I have also felt like locking out the front shock had more impact on long climbs – but that’s another article.)

So, back to the idea of riding like a hard tail. Compared to riding a full suspension bike, riding a hard tail is a much more active experience – you stand to absorb impacts and you choose your line more carefully to keep the back end from bouncing around too much and popping you off the seat. You are much more in touch with every nuance of the trail. On the full suspension, you probably do those same things, but to a lesser degree. You are more likely to just choose a line and let the suspension do its thing while you stay seated, which can save some abuse on the body. This ability to just point it down and go fast with full suspension definitely adds to the grin factor on the downhills.

I suppose one way to look at it is that, since the level of engagement required on the hard tail is greater, spending time on a hard tail probably makes you a sharper rider, and, therefore, a better rider. Alternately, riding smoother and feeling less beat up means you’ll ride longer and more, which makes you a better rider.

Keeping all components equal, hard tails are cheaper and lighter, since they lack things like linkages and rear shocks. A Specialized Stumpjumper Comp Carbon hard tail is $900 cheaper than a Specialized Camber Comp Carbon with largely the same component kit and weighs several pounds less. A lighter bike can have snappier handling and feel quicker. Lighter bikes are great and handle a bit differently, but see Death of a Weight Weenie on why I am not hung up on the weight issue more. Plus, with $900 in your pocket, you could put the extra money towards a higher component spec, snazzy outfits and a decent biking trip.

So, is there a winner in this discussion? For me, as in most of life, there is no clear cut, one size fits all answer. If I could only have one bike, but had a good sized budget, full suspension is my choice. On a rough, rooty trail, my achy back says yes, and, on a big old downhill, the grin on my face leaves little question that the extra money is worth it. Start bringing more variables into the equation, and the decision is less clear. It really depends on how and what you ride and how deep your wallet is. On a smoother trails with a limited budget, the racy, active feel of a hard tail would be nothing to complain about – racy with money in your pocket might just be something to cheer about.

Bottom line is you can have a ton of fun on both on any type of trail. Just don’t feel like you need to choose based on perceived efficiency – choose based on how you want to ride and what best fits your budget. Of course, if you can swing both, then you can set the bikes up differently and choose which one to ride based on your mood.

Here is another impression from our time in France….

I (Mrs.29erOnline) rode the S Works version of the Stumpjumper FSR for the first time in France. Now, granted, it was so cool just to be in France that, probably, a Huffy would have been fine. But I wasn’t on a Huffy, I was on the top of the line S-Works Stumpjumper FSR and it was very impressive.

First, I will say, that while I am no authority on bikes, I have been riding mountain bikes for more than a few years and 29 inch mountain bikes for the last four. When I initially switched to the 29er, I was perfectly happy with the 26 inch bike I had. It was light, fast, and, very easy to control. I always felt like, “Well, why change what works and I’m not anywhere near being a pro, so will I even notice a difference anyway?” That said, what I really liked immediately about the 29er was the confidence it gave me. So, I have learned that, the more I ride, the more I do notice differences.

I am 5′ 4″ with a 28 inch inseam. I rode the size small Stumpjumper. As a woman, I think we all worry about the size, the comfort and, for me, stand over height is a pretty important thing. You want to be able to get off easily without slamming yourself against the bar because the bike is too tall. I noticed right away that this bike, even though it was a 130mm travel bike, was a great fit for a short girl. Also, as a short, woman rider, I sometimes have to adjust my bike mid ride because either my back or neck starts to ache. This is usually because the bike I am on is too long for me. With the Stumpjumper, I didn’t have that problem, which was really nice because I could focus on the ride and not constantly be distracted and uncomfortable. So, this was really nice, and a welcome surprise. To sum it up, the stand over was great, I was not over extended and it was really comfortable. This bike is a great fit for a shorter woman rider. You will be amazed.

Aside from fit, I noticed that the Stumpjumper is a great looking, meaty bike. Initially, I thought it might be cumbersome, but, surprisingly, as plush as it was to ride, it wasn’t heavy on the climbs. It was grippy, and took tight turns with ease. The best part though, was the downhill. The Command Post was a feature I hadn’t tried before and it was really cool. I love to go fast on the downhill and it’s nice not to worry about a high seat.

I will also say that I noticed how light the wheels felt and how quickly they reacted when pedalling. The only real negative about the bike, for me, is that it gave me more confidence descending than I am actually qualified to have. I thought I was a rock star on it until I ate dirt. Overall, it’ s an awesome bike – super comfy, but also fast and easy to handle.

As a final note, if I had to choose one part of the bike, what would I choose to buy? I would have to say, the wheels and tires. Word on the street is that they are Roval Control Trail SL 29 with carbon rims. The tires are Specialized Purgatory 2.2 with S-Works casing and a 2.1 Ground Control rear. I recently rode the Ground Control with a Captain Control rear at home on another brand’s bike and noticed that I like Specialized tires even though they are heavier then the Schwable tires that are on my personal bike.

Now, let me just say, this bike is not inexpensive, so it’s no wonder it feels like butter. My next objective is to see if one of their ” budget friendlier” bikes works as well on the terrain back at home and the style of riding I do. I will keep in mind that this is a lower end bike which may add weight. Let’s face it, it would be sweet to have a Porsche, but hey, a Saab is nothing to be embarrassed about. Ok, let’s see how the Saab a.k.a. Stumpjumper Comp 29er measures up. Do I have you on the edge of your seat yet ?

Here is a more official photo from Specialized…

More video from Roc D’Azure. Specialized Bikes  Sam Benedict explains what the Camber was designed to do.This was filmed on the seashore of Frejus France so the wind was a bit noisy. Still it is great information straight from the mouths of the people who know it the best.

Check out our review of the Specialized Camber Comp Carbon 29 here

Meet Tomasz – he’s looking for a hard tail 29er. First, some background. He started out on a 29er hard tail, but it was really more of a riding-around-the-neighborhood kind of bike. That didn’t stop Tomasz from taking it on the local trail. The first time out, while trying to make it up a steep bank, he fell over backwards and down about 6 feet, flat on his back. Broke his helmet. He was hooked. Not one for half measures, the next week he showed up to ride on a slightly used Specialized Enduro he bought from the racer at the local bike shop. He affectionately calls it his “tank”.

He lives in South Texas and, really, an Enduro is way way too much of a All Mountain, long travel type bike for where he rides (we’ll overlook the fact that it isn’t a 29er). He had a blast on it in the north Georgia mountains, but, even there, it is probably overkill, considering the climbs and relative smoothness of most of the trails.

The “Tank” in north Georgia with a proper 29er

Tomasz is hard on equipment. He looks for every jump and drop and he hits them as hard and fast as he can. He has broken so many spokes, he bought a back up set of wheels so he would not be out of action for repairs. The thing is, even though all logic says the Enduro is a ridiculous bike for South Texas riding, in a funny way, it suits his gonzo personality. Maybe having a “tank” is not such a bad thing for some people!

Now, however the bounce of the suspension and weight on climbs has made Tomasz think he’d like something lighter and more efficient. He is thinking 29er hard tail so that he has something completely different from the Enduro. A 29er hardtail XC bike sounds like the logical choice. However, he is more comfortable having his weight further back on the bike and he wants to be able to do light stunt work – drops of 4 feet or more on the local skills course.

Two issues come to mind immediately. First, he is afraid of breaking the frame or 29” wheels on something “lightweight” and XC oriented. As far as the frame goes, this is a valid concern – an a XC bike will survive a couple of drops with a talented rider, but repeated hard charging, jumps and dropping is inviting disaster, as most XC frames are designed with light weight in mind. While 29er wheels are certainly strong, doing big drops on a hard tail makes rim selection critical.

The other problem with XC oriented bikes is that the geometry is all wrong for what Tomasz wants to do. The geometry of an XC bike is designed to keep the front end down on steep climbs. In my opinion, shorter stays and geometry that is meant to pull up easily are vital for aggressive, stunt/tech, and drop type riding.

So, take XC bikes off the list. Really then, he is looking for a hard tail, Trail bike – something with relaxed geometry that can take a beating. Well, hard tail Trail bikes are somewhat hard to come by. Most folks head towards full suspension when they think Trail bike. What is the argument for a hard tail, Trail bike? No rear suspension to worry about and more responsive on smoother surfaces, like dirt jumps and wooden stunts. Plus, hard tails are cheaper.

While there are not too many choices, several hard tail, Trail oriented bikes do come to mind. The Canfield Yelli Screamy ($650 frame), Canfield Nimble9 ($650 frame), and the Banshee Paradox ($599 frame). The Yelli Screamy and Paradox both have slack angles (69 degree head angles) and short chain stays (16.7 -16.8 inch), so they should handle well and inspire confidence when descending. The Nimble9 adds a different wrinkle with a steel frame and the ability to run as a single speed. The Sinister Simon Bar would also be worth a look, although the head angle is steeper than that of the others listed.

Tomasz could run these bikes with a solid wheel set and a 120mm fork on pretty much anything. They are built burly, so they can stand up to extra abuse. That said, for most riders, doing more than a 5 foot drop on a hard tail is probably asking a bit much (both of bike and rider). If Tomasz can keep his aerial stunts to 4 feet and under, or just tech riding in general, this gets a a lot easier. Once you start doing big drops, you really need more specialized equipment. To keep equipment replacement costs down, Tomasz should probably stick with the Enduro for stuff that is super gnarly. By switching out the tires, he can make the hard tail bike feel more XC and less All Mountain depending on his mood and the terrain.

Fork options: Fox 34 or Marzocchi 44 ATA fork. The Marzocchi is really is nice for the money. I am riding it now and I almost prefer it to my Fox. It is burly, stiff, and plush. It also is very effective at using its travel. It does sacrifice a little on small bump sensitivity, but for a retail cost of around $400, it is the best I have ridden by a long shot and it will be strong enough to hold up to what Tomasz has in mind.

Wheels: I would do Stan’s Flow rims at least, laced 3X, with a solid Hub. Think Hope, Hadley, DT 440Fr. Also, the rear wheel would be best with a 12×142 set up. Unfortunately, 29er hartails, up to this point, do not come with over-sized axles. Look into a 10mm rear axle conversion for the above mentioned hubs. The extra security of a closed drop out and a over-sized axle is huge. Plus, it aids in stiffening the rear wheel up (a 135×12 is fine as well) but until there is a frame that has these features, a 10mm axle is the next best option. Also, add a Dt -rws skewer if you decide on the DT hubs. The spokes, should probably be a 14/15 gauge DT with Brass Nipples. This is the minimum I would use for a hand built set of wheels. Other than that, I would look at a wheel set like something from Halo or Azonic, who makes a heavy duty 29er wheels. These last two choices are less expensive and they come with the caveat that we have no personal experience with them.

Other Important Parts: Look at a short stem, think 70 mm with a wide down hill rated bar to make sure your weight stays back, your handling stays tight, and your cockpit is fairly short to allow you to apply rearward weight changes easily. Last, a dropper post of your choice. Think 5 inch drop. Get that seat out of the way!

Other than wheels and fork, Tomasz can pick and choose components based on budget and personal preference. Check out our Diminishing Returns #2 article for more specific recommendations on component selection.

It can’t be stressed enough that, within reason, skill is more important than equipment. Start small and develop technique, so you can ride safely and within your ability. In addition, build your bike with parts designed for the type of riding you intend to do. Still, even with all these factors considered, all parts will fail eventually. Wear protective gear and inspect your equipment frequently. Last, send pictures to 29erOnline !

Finally I have some details to share about the Rocky Mountain Bikes Element 29. I have been trying to get high definition pictures via the press release that Rocky Mountain Offered but after the offer there has been total radio silence. Oh well.

Here are some excerpts from the press release and our interpretation that should be of interest to you.

Geometry Notes:

The Element has always been a fast handling nimble bike. To me this is what makes this bike have so much potential for the East Coast. Rocky Mountain is using a compact design with short chain stays(17.519) and, compared to their other 29er models, shorter top tubes(23.8 size 18.5 ).

Looking at the chart is not really helping me decide what size I would need either. I normally ride a Large bike. In this geometry I believe I would ride the 18.5. Who knows. What this means for you is you will really need to ride one to find out how they fit.

2012 ELEMENT 29er GEOMETRY

FRAME SIZE ( ‘‘ ) 15’’ 17’’ 18.5’’ 20’’ 21.5’’

HEAD ANGLE degrees 70.6o 70.6o 70.6o 70.6o 70.6o

SEAT ANGLE degrees 74o 74o 74o 74o 74o

SEAT TUBE ( mm ) 394 432 470 508 546

TOP TUBE LENGTH 558 582 605 630 655

HEAD TUBE LENGTH 100 110 120 130 145

CHAINSTAY (mm) 445 445 445 445 445

BB Drop (mm) 39.5 39.5 39.5 39.5 39.5

STANDOVER HEIGHT 771 771 771 771 771

WHEELBASE ( mm ) 1066 1097 1120 1146 1172

Whatever the case, this bike should be a nimble, fast handling bike with enough Bottom Bracket clearance to satisfy us East Coasters.

Rocky Mountains Description:

“SmoothLink features minimal chain growth (Element 29 : 8 mm ) in order to create a very active suspension feel, while still maintaining the traction and forward drive created by the ETS effect. No kickback. No bob.”

29eronline’s Translation:

Very active suspension. This style of suspension really benefits from shock platform features (pro-pedal,floodgate,etc. ) Chain growth can inhibit suspension activity. Bikes with chain growth tend to stiffen the suspension if used/tuned specifically to react this way. To much chain growth results in pedal kick back and stiff suspension while pedaling as applied to terrain. Done right chain growth can make a bike feel like it pedals better/livelier. As far as suspension goes it inhibits a suspensions bikes ability to react to the ground while you are pedaling and negatively can force the suspension to react to the rider instead of terrain. In my opinion both are not desirable, but the riders that have ridden a number of different bikes like the stiffening snappy pedaling offered by tuning chain growth. Some people like the tightening of the rear suspension while pedaling, Rocky evidently does not. What the platform shocks do is restrict a shocks compression. For some riders “fully active” is to bouncy(BOB) . Due to the Elements shock position close to the top tube, using the floodgate is easy enough to turn on and off depending on terrain.

I like fully active, Camye, Calvin, James and Jamie all use the pro pedal full time. I personally leave it as open as possible.

Why should you care? The Element should allow a rider to get all the benefits that suspension has to offer. Stay in the saddle longer, increase traction and control and of course comfort. The ability to use pro pedal allows you to fine tune the bike on the fly to your preferences. Linkage based platforms are more limited in this regard, to what the designer was trying to achieve with the linkage(simplified, way to easy version).

Rocky Mountains Word: “By removing the braking forces from the lower linkage, they are isolated and do not act on the suspension system, thereby greatly reducing ‘‘brake jack’’, or the stiffening of the suspension under braking. The slight change in the angle between the caliper and the lower link creates a ‘‘floating disk’’ effect.”

29eronline’s take: Every bike we have tested has some brake jack. The DW-Link Pivot mach 429 was the least affected by it. Lawill design bikes were crazy bad with regards to braking. Non linkage driven Single pivots are really affected as well. What I have found is that most claims of no brake jack are not true. Its really a matter of how much or rather if the bike jacks or compresses. Most bikes on the market now are very good. What I am most interested in is, Is the rear suspension free to work during braking? According to Rocky, the Element has resolved this. Hopefully we will be given a chance to test this for ourselves. My note to you, the marketing sounds right “greatly reducing” note they did not say eliminate. Cool method of achieving this, rotating the caliper mount.

Rocky Mountain Bikes description: “SmoothLink was created around a linear rising rate suspension curve, a rising rate gives the suspension that ‘‘bottomless’’ feel, while still riding high in its initial travel for an efficient pedaling platform.

29eronline’s take. Simple suspension design with a meticulous execution. Simple is good. It means less for you to have to maintain(in theory).

There is no reason a simple design can’t be excellent. Shock tune and leverage rate can make a huge difference. With today’s shock technology short link bikes don’t necessarily have an advantage. It’s really how a bikes suspension is tuned as a total package.

Rocky Mountain has been refining this system for many years.

The Element 29 is using a 142x 12 mm rear axle. The oversize axle add a significant amount of stiffness to the rear end of a bike. This is more important on a 29er because the lever(chain stay) is longer then a 26er. The actual rear end width is about the same as a 135mm width wheel. By making a slot for the axle to fit in, companies could use 135mm hubs and with simple conversion kits, upgrade to a 142×12 rear axle. I did say upgrade. The 142×12 axles are easy to use and create a stiffer more reliable rear end. Wheel changes are easy and the peace of mind of having a closed drop out rear system is my preference.

In addition to this, wheels can be stiffer due to the larger stiffer axle of the 142x 12 system. I think that this is where the industry needs to go with rear axles, and am happy to see Rocky Mountain incorporate this in the Elements design.

Rocky Mountain Bikes says they do this to stiffen up the bottom bracket area. I have no experience with this so can’t comment. I guess we will leave alone until I get to ride a bike with BB92 technology. I find that I feel more flex with linkages/chain stays then Bottom Bracket shells but who knows…

Of course Rocky Mountain bikes decided to use a tapered steer tube and actually spec a tapered steer tube fork, unlike the Altitude, on the Element. 29eronline has been a supporter of this since we first rode one in 2009. The tapered steer tube makes for a noticeably stiffer front end on a bike in my/our(Not just me) opinion. Glad to see the Element 29 comes with the tapered steer tube technology.

ABC PIVOT TECHNOLOGY

Here is another quote from Rocky Mountain Bikes press release about the Element 29 with regards to their ABC pivots.

“Our patent pending Angular Bushing Concept™ (ABC) pivots represent a paradigm shift in high performance suspension linkage. ABC™ pivots consist of an angular contact polymer bushing which rotates on a tapered alloy pivot. By carefully controlling the tolerance of these pieces, we are able to specify a torque value on the pivot and can eliminate binding, which has been impossible until now. The more you tighten a typical bushing system, the more the pivot will bind. Not so with ABC™ Pivots. And get this; they’re lighter, more durable, and laterally stiffer than a cartridge bearing. On the Element we saved 120 grams by switching to ABC™ pivots while increasing rear end pivot stiffness by 105 percent. Yes, you read that correctly; ABC™ pivots are 105% stiffer than a sealed cartridge bearing. Plus, they need almost no maintenance – just clean the contact surfaces from time to time.

It’s been a year since we unveiled this new pivot technology and the proof is in the pedals. Having literally abused our Elements in North Shore rain and mud for the last year, we’re definitely riding more and wrenching less.

ABC™ Pivots are used in 6 locations on every Element, saving 20g per location for a total weight savings of 120 grams over conventional cartridge bearings.”

My experience with Rocky Mountains Bushings have been very positive. Everyone wants sealed bearing pivots. On the East Coast of the United States in our wet conditions, bushings make more sense to me. If I don’t meticulously lube, grease and maintain my bikes they start getting creaky, squeaky and develop surface corrosion quickly. Granted most bearings are stainless steel, but moisture gets in every nook and cranny of bikes out here. The humidity gets so bad that I can’t shoot video at times due to my cameras fogging up so bad. Bushing are basically unaffected by this. If they start to creak some soapy water is all you need to get them smooth and quite again.

Add to this more surface area and lighter weight and we have a winner in my book. Of course this depends on execution. This is the big question and there is only one way to find out…

Rocky Mountain Bikes is offering 3 trim packages of Aluminum Elements. No news on carbon versions.

There are a lot of carbon parts on the market. Look in a catalog and you will see carbon parts at all levels; low cost that is usually house brand/ mail order, then middle of the road factory branded, and at the super high end, niche market stuff that is supremely expensive. As a complete, although closet bike snob, I know what I should get. I recommend it to the readers of 29eronline all the time. Still, if there is a shiny new carbon part promising me mountain biking bliss, I am always tempted. What to do?

Haven Draped Specialized Epic Carbon.

After painstakingly looking, and trying to decide what parts I wanted to drape on my bike, I went  for the Easton Haven Carbon parts. I chose them because they are built heavy enough to take abuse, but are still lighter then most aluminium equivalents. The bars are wide at 710mm, but are low rise, at about an inch. Compared to Easton Haven Aluminium bars there is a 100 gram weight difference and they are double the cost. I am using the Easton EA90 all-mountain stem that is 0 degree rise and 80mm long and under 130 grams. I like this better then a Thomson stem, at 155 grams, with a carbon bar due to the ability to see where the bar sits because of the more open face plate as opposed to Thomsons solid one. So between the stem and carbon haven bars I saved roughly a ¼ pound in nearly the worst (least effective) place to do it on a bike. The sad part is, I feel great about it !

Haven Carbon Bars at 710mm wide this is about as wide as I care to ride on our local trails. Any wider and I would have problems clipping trees

While saving weight is nice, the true benefit to the Haven Carbon bars and short stem combo is that I have a 29er friendly, short stem, wide bar set up. It is the correct height on the front end of my large frame to fit me right. In addition, in an impact situation it is an extremely strong set up, plus, I get to save a ¼ pound. Add in a little material vibration damping (I am running a 120mm travel fork so it really is a small amount ) and I have a justifiable upgrade, in my mind.

80mm Easton EA90 stem. Plenty stiff, really light and teamed up with a wide set of Haven Carbon Bars makes steering the slack angled Epic carbon a breeze.

Another note; grips. My Oury lock on grips do not clamp to the carbon bars. The Haven Carbon bars must be  slightly thinner in diameter then the aluminium bars I have been running. I have used the Specialized lock on grips. Just be careful not to over-tighten them.  Ergon Grips worked good for me as well. The best advice I can give here is to get a set of old school non-locking grips, if you really want to be safe. I like the ESI chunky grips. They are silicon and are not affected by water so, if you get caught out in the rain, your grips won’t be sliding around. If you really have to know, they are significantly lighter then most locking grips as well.

Front view of the Easton Haven carbon bars. These bars are very stiff. At 170 grams they are impressive.

The seat post weighs about 240 grams, is very stiff, and comes in a zero set back. It is a 2 bolt counter-acting design. This allows me to set the saddle nose tilt exactly where I want it and I never have to over-torque it to make sure the nose of the saddle doesn’t drop.

Stiff, light strong and not even close to the most expensive post out there.

One of the biggest reasons for choosing Easton is their reputation for producing reliable carbon. Do you really want to take the risk on a un-proven carbon manufacturer? We are talking handle bars and seat posts – failure could be catastrophic!  Easton has led the component charge as it applies to carbon now for a good 15 years and they are about as reliable as they come.

The clamp head of the Haven seat post is is a two bolt design. These are very reliable and infinitely tunable. Tried and True ! tunable

Another reason to stick with Easton is that, while expensive, their prices are not as hefty as many others. They are very competitively priced at $150 for the Haven handlebars and $130 for the seat post. By way of comparison, an Enve composite seat post costs $300.

Last, and really the most fun, they look awesome teamed up with the Easton Haven wheelset I have been running.

Look for our review of the Haven wheels coming shortly. Even in these conditions the bearings are smooth as the day they arrived.

On a more practical note; does it ride better than aluminium? Yes, and no. Really, aluminium and carbon just ride differently. Carbon is now so stiff that damping in comparison to aluminum that the difference is minimal. That said, it may be more noticeable on a rigid bike or hard tail. Carbon is super strong, but aluminium is rarely a problem in terms of breaking. Carbon is, without a doubt, lighter, but it comes at a price. I like carbon parts (except cranks – already sold the XO set I bought). Will you like carbon parts? Try a set of Havens and leave a comment!

I am no longer looking at other brands, I will be sticking with Easton! So, next up is a super light set up like Easton’s Carbon EC90 group of parts – including the wheels. I feel it is my duty to test out the high end stuff and report back. Someone has to take one for the team, it may as well be me.

Matt T is from New England, USA and he is trying to build a trail bike that he can race. In addition, he wants to build a hard tail as a full time racer.  He has pretty much settled on a Niner RIP 9 and Niner AIR9 Carbon as his preferred frames – both great choices. The problem is, he has a 26 inch dual suspension Yeti and wants to have all 29ers in his stable. Rather than start from scratch, he sent a list of parts he has available to use, if possible, to lessen the blow to his wallet.

Other side notes. He wants the dual suspension bike to be primarily for aggressive trail riding. New England is particularly rocky and rooty with lots of granite rollers and natural terrain that will test your nerve and handling skills. The trails are also littered with short climbs and steep, short descents.

Components he already has on two bikes:
Drivetrain: 3X9, Race Face Deus Crankset with bash guard, Chris King Bottom Bracket, XT Front and Rear Derailluers (and I have an old XT rear that I keep as a spare) and Shifters.  XTR pedals.  Brakes: Formula Oro K24′s.  Cockpit: Thomson and Easton Stems, Easton Monkey Bar, Thomson Post, ODI Lock-ons. Saddle: SDG Ti-Fly C.  Tires: Kenda Nevegals DTC, 29.  Hubs: Chris King ISO’s, 32 spokes, currently built into 26 355 rims, QR versions.

1X9, with SRAM X.9 trigger and X.7 rear (the new version that can run 9 or 10 speeds), and Shimano 29er wheelset.

What Fat Bob Would Do:
In short, start with the RIP9 with two wheel sets. The RIP9 is raceable at the longer events. With a simple wheel and tire swap, you really change the personality of the bike. Next get the AIR9 carbon frame, put the lightest stuff you have on it. If you know you are going to be racing a rough course take the RIP9. For all the rest go AIR9 carbon. As the drive train wears out or breaks, the AIR9 carbon can start taking on a lighter, faster parts kit. In the mean time, race admission is expensive! Have fun!

Wheels: First things first. This is one of the most important parts of your 29er. I would go one light set and one heavier and run the same hubs, rotors and cassettes so you can swap wheels based on which will serve best – racing vs trail. With this approach, swapping wheels should be no more then a twist or two of your micro adjuster.

So, take the Chris King Hubs off the Yeti ASR and lace them up to a set of Stans Flow Rims, convert the hubs to 15QR. Lace standard 3 cross with Brass nipples and 14/15 gauge spokes. These wheels will be stiff and strong which is just what you need to be able to ride hard in New England. Run the rear skewer as a DT-Swiss RWS skewer. The extra torque and reliability are worth the money.

The second set of wheels should be a Chris King hub set with a 15qr front to match the hub set on the above wheel set. Next, get a set of ENVE Carbon XC wheels. They are super light and carbon rims are stiff. This should be a race only wheel set. Since you have two sets with the same hubs and 9speed cassette (covered later) you could easily use the RIP9 with the light wheel set for rougher course endurance racing or stage races. The comfort of the RIP9 frame is excellent. As long as you have a light set of wheels for race day you could feasibly ride this set up while you are saving for the AIR9 carbon frame and fork. Use a light set of tires on the carbon rims based on current conditions. If the carbon rims are to much money, go for a set of Stans Crest for race day only.

Shifters, Handlebars, Seatpost: There really is no reason to swap from 9 speed. Run what you have. The X7-X9 stuff will work well enough and is a nice way to save money. You are talking a minimal weight gain over higher end parts on an area of the bike on which it just does not matter. Replace it with higher end stuff as you wear your existing parts out. You may nor even want to bother when the time comes. As far as seat posts and stems are concerned, again, don’t worry about it. Just run what you have. I would even consider running a shim for the AIR9 carbon if you don’t have a 31.6 seat post (the size the AIR9 carbon comes with. As long as your cockpit is the same length and the drop between your saddle and bars is the same, adjusting between the two bikes should be easy. Use your existing stems and seat posts to get you as close as possible. Your handle bars should follow a similar logic. If you are used to running Easton Monkey Light Bars get a second pair for the AIR9 Carbon.  Continue the theme with your saddle.

Headsets: This will need to be provided for the new RIP9 frames. Look at a Cane Creek 40 series. It is affordable and I can’t tell the difference between it and the 110 series I was running before. The Air9 Carbon comes with a headset.

Forks: I would run Fox F29 series due to the 15 Qr hubs you will be running. Rock Shox will be putting out  15 qr forks, supposedly, in the future but I am not sure when that will be. If you want to save money  get an RL version. You lose the compression adjustibility and lock out threshold but you still have rebound control and a lockout.

Cranks, pedals, chains, and front derailleurs: Ride what you have. Cranks are important but, realistically, as long as the ones you have are 104/64 BCD (bolt circle diameter), it is hard to justify an expensive upgrade. Chains really are interchangeable in the 9speed sizing. You will need new chains anyway, so I recommend running the same brand. I run SRAM because I like how the powerlink makes cleaning easy. Plus, I like to carry an extra link to make trail side repairs easy in the event of braking a link on the trail.

Brakes: Here again, I would run what you have. Unless you have mechanical brakes. If you are buying brakes, check out Formula R1’s. They are light and super powerful. Plus, keep it in the family with the Formula’s you already own.

Tires: It is hard to recommend tires because there are so many variables. You will be able to run tubeless on any of the above recommended rims. Specialized Tires have been very good to us at 29eronline. For trail tires in your conditions, think Specialized Purgatory. They are tubeless compatible and have great traction on a  huge variety of terrain.  I would probably stick with the 2.25 width, as they can pull double duty on wet tracks. I am super impressed with the new Specialized Ground Control tires. They are a 2.1 width that I would put up against larger tires. The real advantage is they are 600 grams each as opposed to 750-850 grams each – that is a reduction of between ¾ and 1 pound of rotating weight! Race tires? I’ll time out here. This is not my forte.  Experimentation is the best bet for you. Check out the Maxxis line; lots of local racers are really into them. That is the best I can do on that topic.

Not long ago in our Questions Readers are Asking series we talked a bit about the relative merits of buying a frame and building it up vs buying a complete bike. Here is a bit to refresh your memory (I have underlined the relevant portions):
With the Jamis and Specialized, he gets some value benefit by getting a complete bike, since package deals tend to be cheaper. Also, he gets a cutting edge, latest and greatest frame. Conversely, going with the Niner let’s JW pick and choose his components to his exact liking and gets him a time-proven and safe frame material in steel.
There is one critical part of this decision making process we forgot to throw out for consideration and I feel it needs to be addressed; Drip, Drip vs Kaboom.

I had not thought of this until recently, when I started a build from frame up. Enter the Significant Other, or S.O. for short. If you don’t have an S.O., have separate checking accounts, or intend to live as a hermit, feel free to tune out.

I will say up front that my S.O. is incredibly supportive of my biking endeavors – especially considering that I say “bike” and everything after sounds like the teacher on Charlie Brown talking, to her ears. Even so, the parade of confirmation emails and UPS deliveries spread over a number of weeks as each piece, so carefully chosen, arrives, has raised an eyebrow, then a comment, then another comment – something about a drunken sailor. Drip, Drip.

Compare this to when I arrived home with my fully built pride and joy that cost more than many used cars.  I confessed to my S.O. that it was slightly over budget to a raised eyebrow and look of horror. Kaboom! However, I immediately began explaining all the wonderful features it had. As I spoke, saying “bike” as frequently as possible, her eyes began to glaze over and she lost interest somewhere around adjustable suspension travel.

Drip, Drip vs Kaboom. When pondering the relevant merits of a frame-up build vs a complete bike, I would recommend considering what other non bike related things may need to be taken into account. Just as you have to decide on the geometry and features that best suit your riding style, you may also need to take into account which works better for you, drip drip, or kaboom.

By: WriterBob

In our last 29er Questions from Readers, we saw how far a $3,000 budget went towards a hard tail with an emphasis on light weight. The answer was; pretty far, with several good options in carbon fiber or steel. In this installment, the challenge is much greater – full suspension on a tighter budget.

Meet Tom. He is an experienced rider – he tackled Moab – and he has been on a 2009 Santa Cruz Blur LT that he build up himself. He recently tried out a 29er and is hooked – welcome to the club! He rides because he loves to ride, likes being in nature, challenging his skills, and exploring new trails. He knows his $2,000 budget is tight but he wants something he can ride now and build up over time into a great machine.

Basically, Tom’s riding style is that of most enthusiast bikers and fits our philosophy here at 29eronline. He is passionate about it, and challenges himself, but he does not feel the need to beat or compare to others, like a racer. It is a much more personal experience. When folks like us ride a technical section of trail the reward is the sense of accomplishment and satisfaction from cleaning it. However, we are not willing to risk serious injury for that thrill – no wanna be Redbull videos from the folks at 29online.

Tom has been looking at the Trek HiFi Plus which lists for $2,309 and the Niner Jet9. The Jet9 is admittedly way over his budget at $3,000 plus, but he heard the Niner handles better than the HiFi, so we will include it in the discussion.

29eronline has very limited time on the Trek HiFi Plus, but the time we do have was pleasant. It handles quickly and the ABP was a nice feature. Local riders have complained that the handling was too fast at times.

We would put Tom on a Specialized Camber at $2,050. Tom is who the Camber was designed for and the price is spot on for his budget. It is a XC bike tuned to be plush and have reliable handling. Call it an XC bike with a playful side. For $2,050 he is out the door, and living his 29er dreams. Given his experience and willingness to be his own mechanic, he will definitely want to upgrade over time. This is a frame that will justify the investment. The wheels would be the first recommended upgrade. The bike is noticeably faster and smoother with a high-end wheel set. That being said, there is nothing wrong with the stock wheels and they will serve him well while he saves for new ones. Our initial review of the Camber includes more thoughts on potential upgrades.

What about the idea the Niner Jet9 handles “better” than the Camber? We would argue (nicely of course – see our review of the Jet9) that it does not handle better. Rather, it handles completely differently. These bikes, despite having similar suspension travel, are completely different bikes. The JET9 feels faster, has tons of traction for an 80mm bike, and is plush enough to save you from getting too beat up. It needs to be steered from the center of the bike and it responds to fairly subtle weight changes. It is a very fast handling bike; it feels like an XC race bike. The Jet9 requires you to trust the bike and not panic by over-steering or exaggerating body positioning. If the downhill is steep, you still need to stay fairly centered. Leaning too far back makes the front end light. The JET9 is great for covering lots of ground fast and taking the edge off the hits. It is definitely trail-worthy but it does not hide its race heritage. The Jet9 is probably better compared to the Specialized Epic than a Specialized Camber.

The Camber is looser as far as geometry than the Jet9. It’s feel is a little softer than the JET9, but, surprisingly, not a ton. The Camber’s handling is much more forgiving. It does not feel as fast, but has excellent downhill manners. It really likes to play. From a handling perspective, we have an easier time comparing it to the 110mm rear travel, 120mm front travel bikes then the 4″ (100mm) bikes we have ridden. Imagine a trail bike with a bit less travel; that’s the Camber. On the Camber, your weight feels closer to the back of the bike and your torso sits a bit more upright. The front wheel is a little more in front of you than on the JET9, which, in contrast to the Camber, sets the front wheel slightly more under you. If you ride the bike on the trail you will immediately know the difference.

We prefer the Camber in the more technical trails and the JET9 on the the more buffed out trails to moderately rooty, rocky trails. Here are some comparisons that might help:
Moab Utah = Camber, High altitude Colorado = JET9
Arkansas Womble trail = JET9, Ouachita Mountains = Camber,
Edge Loop Epic, Fruita = JET9, Mary’s Horsethief = Camber.

Finally, we should say that to compare a Camber at $2,050 to a JET9 at a minimum buy-in of about $3,000 is a little unfair. So, the above comments are really about geometry alone. I have had the privilege of switching almost every part of the Camber and switching out and riding Jet9 bikes with everything from a $6,000 race set up to a $3,099 SRAM X-7 kit. Long story short, Camber = playtime in an upgrade worthy package and Jet9 = efficiency and relative comfort over long distances with fast handling and a more pure XC feel.

This is a sample build to build a MCR9 frame for $3000. This is just for a general idea.

We want you to spend money where it counts. The Wheels, The suspension and of course the right frame for how you ride. Please read this post to see the riders profile.

All riders are slightly different and we of course have to leave room for preference.

We hope this helps

FatBob and Writer Bob collaborated on this.

The real world total looks to be $3028.00 this includes an extra bottle of Stan’s Sealant and SPD pedals. Alot of bikes do not come with these items. The Stan’s alone gets  us really close to $3000.00 Next since the bike is tubeless you don’t need the $6.00 in tubes. Now we are under budget.  We chose to show these items as this is really what you will end up needing. Some items are on sale there will always be some deals to be found so I am not bothered by this.

The Carbon post and handle bar an be cut for more affordable choices. I would recommend keeping the Easton parts. They are reliable and add a level of comfort to a hard tail bike. It is about comfort not weight as there are aluminium posts that weigh less.

Frame: Niner MCR9 $800

Fork: Rock Shox Reba RLT (RL from Niner bikes)$555

Headset: Cane creek s-3 $35

Seat Post: Easton EC70 $130

Saddle: WTB Rocket v OE $25

Stem: Easton ea-30 $3o

Bars: Easton EC70 flat $99   riser add- $30

Grips: ESI Chunky or slim depending on hand size very subjective budget $20.00

Shifters: Sram X-7 2 x10 $85

Brakes Set: Magura Louise $260 set Front and rear. Both ride excellent for the money

Rotors: Magura Storm. Specify size $25 each+ $50 set

Adapters: Leave $40 just in case.

Rear derailuer: sram X-7 $85

Front derailuer: Sram x-7 2x 10 speeed Top pull top swing or traditional 28.6mm clamp $47

Crankset: Sram X-7 2×10 $171

Chain:Sram pc-1031 10 speed $37

Cassette: Sram Pg 1050 10 speed 12-36 $50

Wheelset: Sun Ringle Black Flag pro, or for heavier riders Sun Ringle Charger Experts (ton of wheel for the money. Look for our review) $388-$500

Tires: $100 a set

Cables and Housing: Jagwire complete kit  $28

Sealant: Comes with Sun Ringle Wheels extra bottle $25

Tubes: Tubeless but always carry a spare. $6 for 2

Pedals: Shimano SPD $35

Total Cost $3028.00