Build Tips For a 29er Trail Bike Part Two
Posted by FatBob on June 15, 2010
Build Tips For a 29er Trail Bike Part TwoThis a Continuation of the trail bike build suggestions in answer to Steve. Steve submitted a build request to "Bob Builds Bikes'. I thought it would be helpful to post my answer to the world as I am sure many people wonder about this kind of thing.
What should we talk about next? I think the next subject should be wheels and brakes.
First lets discuss brakes. 29eronline specs Shimano SLX brakes on the test rigs. I have been a long time supporter of Shimano Brakes. My affection started out with Shimano four piston XT brakes that came out in about the year 2000. they have since improved the design of course.
Why I like Shimano? They are easy to bleed. They use mineral oil, which is pretty harmless stuff if it gets on you or on your bike. This is as opposed to DOT fluid which can burn your skin, ruin the finish on your bike and is environmentally not good. Shimano brakes offer plenty of power and excellent modulation. they are easy to align when you install them. Last but not least they are pretty affordable and easy to get parts for. I would say if you are traveling, almost any bike shop will have brake pads and be able to service these brakes.
The cons? They are heavy. That is the only con I can think of.
I have a set of Formula R1 brakes and have ridden Magura Marta SL brakes for a couple of years. Both of these brakes perform well. They are both light. They are both very expensive. They are both more expensive to maintain. The Formula R1 brakes will be harder to find parts for. I recently snapped a bolt in the Formula R1 brake levers. I had to send the whole brake back to Formula to get a new master cylinder. Formula had excellent customer service and fortunately had what I needed to fix my brakes. The retail of this would be well over $130. For that much money I could buy a complete Shimano brake set! Needless to say I went to the hardware store and bought 4 steel bolts and replaced the pretty anodized red ones that were sent with the brakes. The Marta Brakes are excellent feeling and I really like them. I did snap one of the carbon levers. If this ever happens to you read the directions on how to change the levers. I did not. Evidently doing it wrong can screw up the brake. Again the cost of the brake lever assembly cost about what an SLX brake set(front or rear) can be bought for online. Plus this was a special order item. It took a week to fix.
Long story short. The high end brakes work well but are harder to service unless you go to a well equipped shop that keeps the small parts in stock. It is also debatable that they work better then Shimano brakes that cost half the amount. If you don't mind a little bit of pork the Shimano's are hard to beat. I don't have much to say about Avid except I have little experience with them. I have had a couple of warranty items from them recently and I finally gave up trying to get the warranty's taken care of. I am not sure if Shimano is any better which is another topic all together.
As far as rotors go. We use 180mm Front and 160mm in the rear. If I had to do it over I would do 180mm front and rear. This seems to be plenty of rotor for XC and trail use in most locations I have been in. I went through a 200mm rotor phase but feel it is really overkill for most riders needs. Take it for what it is, just an opinion.
Wheels: This topic is huge! I can not possibly cover it all. I guess we can talk about custom hand built and pre-built. A pre built wheel to me is a wheel set that has been factory built as a dedicated wheelset. Typically they require special proprietary parts. The problem with these types of wheels is that typically it is harder to get them serviced. The parts usually have to be ordered directly through the company. The spoke gauge and strength is picked for a "standard" weight range and and a dedicated purpose. This is where type casting riders comes in. Do you ride all mountain? Cross country? Enduro? Freeride? Light freeride"? Aggressive all mountain? Light all mountain? Aggressive trail? Down Hill? Who Knows! I guess all of us ride trail. So trail bike it is.
Typically I use the marketing type casting to pair a wheel set to a rider weight and riding style. If you have a 250 LBS rider that likes to jump every indentation in the trail or lives for rock gardens stay away from wheels that advertise light. This is where "all mountain" wheels come into play. If the 250 LBS rider loves rock gardens and brags about all the parts he breaks then this is where a custom wheel set comes onto play.
Alternatively if I hear of a light rider that wants a wheelset that can handle "trail riding" and admits to being a little timid I want him on a fairly light wheelset. Donn O is about 150LBS. He runs Stans 355 rims, light spokes, alloy nipples and DT-240s hubs,rides aggressively and does not have wheel problems.
I am 215 LBS and rode a similar wheel set and hated the flex.
Basically a custom wheel set can and should be specifically designed and built by some one familiar with the terrain that you ride and is willing to listen to your needs and wants and come up with the best compromise. There is no easy way to do this and no generic answer.
The dedicated wheel sets have their place. They are typically loaded with technology. Also bang for the buck you usually get that technology for a very competitive price. As far as budget wheels bang for the buck there are some killer looking wheels on the market. I have no recommendations as I have not ridden any for any length of time.
Yes I know this wheel information is vague. I would love to test dedicated wheelsets and give our feed back when we get them we will post and tell you who would get the most out of any given wheelset.
What about Carbon rims? Again we have not ridden any so have nothing to add. Does if freak me out? YES! would I try them. YES! They offer a lot of promise but to me need to be proven by someone who is not sponsored by the company. I will not throw my money at them. Before I get some comment by a carbon zealot I know that Steve Peat races them Down Hill on the world cup circuit. I dont care. He gets free wheels any time he wants. It only has to make it down the hill one time. In defense of carbon wheels, under Steve Peat aluminium wheels wont hold up either. I would test them if a company sent them to me. Does any body want to know about carbon rims? If so I will see if I can get set.
Another big Con of carbon wheels is that if they do break it will cost a small fortune to replace. If I destroy a Stan's rim it will cost $85 to scrap it and $35 or so to get it rebuilt plus max $60 for spokes. Those would be some expensive spokes. So total $180. Do that to a carbon rim! You still need to buy spokes and pay labor plus $850 for a Edge Composite rim! The edge rims are 450 grams and Stan's Flow rims weigh 470 grams(claimed) If the Edge rims puke do you want to pay $850 to replace one of them? Will they fail? Who knows? We will see in a few years and at those prices I will want to have them on my bike for a few years.
So there are pro's and cons to factory built and hand built. at this point as long as you maintain either set, check your air pressure in your tires, use adequate air pressure in your tires(protects your rims) you should be able to get good service out of either type.




The rear derailleur caused the derailleur hanger to break(good), unfortunately not before the rear chain stay of the Ventana El-Rey bent.




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